Too Bad For You: Historical places I can't visit...Ghadames, Lybia

Ahhh...Libya?

The list of amazing places I hope to visit in the world is really long. I've been very lucky that I have gone to Asia, North America and the UK so far. But these places are relatively safe. When I say relative I mean I don't have to worry about a bazooka shot to the face or getting thrown off a bus, or worse.

One place I really hope calms the fork down is Libya. Every since I read about the Muslim invasion of the area around 660 CE as a kid, I've wanted to go and see the amazing Greek, Roman, and Berber cultural leftovers which Muslim culture graphed on to. The past dude in charge, however, had no interest in a little Canadian kid getting the chance to let her run around the desert. Mr. Gaddafi had bigger problems and he was...removed in 2011 in the civil war.

Since the defeat of Gaddafi's loyalist forces, Libya has been torn among numerous, rival, armed militias affiliated to regions, cities and tribes, while the central government has been weak and unable to bring its authority over the country. Competing militias have lined up against each other in a political struggle between Islamist politicians and their opponents.Can you say power vacuum? And that means those wankers Daesh are there too doing their crap.

So I'm out of luck getting to see this:

From National Geographic

Copyright- Mike Gadd

Copyright: Federica Leone

This is the amazing Old Ghadames, an oasis town in the heart of the Sahara desert is on the edge of Libya, close to both the Algerian and Tunisian borders. It was named an UNESCO World Heritage site in 1986.

Copyright: Federica Leone - UNESCO

It is a whole abandoned city that's a labyrinth of interconnected rooftops and narrow dark tunnels, contrasting the brilliant white-washed walls which make the old town an architectural spectacle. The people of Ghadames are largely Amazigh Berbers and the old town of Ghadames has been inhabited since approximately 400 BCE. The Romans first mention the town, Cydamus, around 100 BCE. Ghadames was an important trade town until the late 1800s CE.

The last family voluntarily withdrew from the old town in the late 1990s, "due to a lack of water and electricity." I think more they were forced to move as that sounds like a suddenly odd reason now. The old town now stands as a monument to what was a feat of architectural engineering for a Saharan oasis town.

Traveller and cool chick Adela Suilman wrote about visiting Ghadames:

Local guide Mohammed tells me, "growing up in the old town as a child you quickly have to commit to memory the numerous tunnels and passages, determining which are true and which are dead ends. It stimulates a healthy memory!" 50 years on, Mohammed can still navigate the old town maze by heart as I blunder around behind him, barely able to see my hand in front of me. The stark contrast of dark and light, as well as the bright white buildings play tricks on the eyes and it's easy to become quickly bedazzled by this unique walled town. 

Moving into one of the traditional dwellings, one is immediately hit with a burst of colour which starkly contrasts the white outer walls. Traditional Ghadamesy colours are utilised, predominantly red with complimentary yellow, green and orange. Some front doors are also decorated with these colours to denote that its inhabitants have undertaken the Hajj pilgrimage to Mecca. 

Copyright: Federica Leone - UNESCO

Each of the rooms within the uniform 4 story houses has a designated purpose, whether it's wheat storage or rooms for washing the dead before burial. The high roofs and light colours make the houses intensely cool as a relief to the outside Saharan heat. As light is rare within the old town, mirrors are strategically hung on the walls throughout the houses to cleverly reflect light into each room. As one moves up the house to the rooftop you are greeted by a silent city. The roofs of all of the houses in the old town are connected by narrow walkways. Traditionally only women could roam the rooftops, acting as lookouts for Saharan caravans and news as well as being the primary location for them to socialise with one another.

So...too bad for me. It's too unstable and violent now for me to go safely into Libya and see this amazingly historically important and beautiful place. For now.

Lobster People! A Short History of Vacations

This week´s post comes from a question from Dan in Calgary, AB. He asked since I was on vacation, where did this concept come from? How and when did people start to take vacations? He cited the Romans get-away of Pompeii as a well known vacation town. Where they knew how to get down.

Apparently.

Let's follow Dan if he was alive and on vacation throughout history, sort of a Doctor Who of lazy days.He'll pack his shorts and make sure to wear his hikers.

The word vacation comes from the Latin vacare, meaning freedom or exemption. We use vacation and holiday as interchangeable terms now, but originally these are two completely different concepts. Dan in most countries around the world would celebrate a holy day - proclaimed for a saint or some battle commemoration. In a very Christian Europe, he'd head to mass on St. Joseph's day and think about how sucky it would have been for him as a step-dad. It also meant a day off of work for Dan from toiling in the fields to worship at his local church/temple, rest, or just sleep in.

Vacations could have holy days in them, but a lot of time there was no real reason for it other that rest and relaxation. In the Western world, the Romans were the first to go on vacations to get away from it all in a busy, crazy and often over-heated city. Dan, in his best straw hat, palanquin, and servants, would head for his villa in Sicily.

A little drafty now though

Roman Dan might have also taken the first actual tours. Scholars, Emperors, and other elite members of society would pack up their families and head to the Mediterranean and hit all over Italy, Greece, Turkey and Egypt hell bent on pleasure. One of the first guidebooks, called The Description of Greece, was written by Pausanias around 160 CE. He spent ten years travelling in Greece partying and seeing the sites.Dan would have travelled along with the P-man, working on poems, eating local cuisine, and making comments about how the locals were hot.

Pictured - a party animal

Not to be left out, we have tons of records of Chinese and Japanese people taking vacations, off to coastal regions or just going to see friends. Chinese scholars of the Song dynasty (960-1279 CE) wrote many travel notes and guides, detailing inns and places, sometimes women of pleasure. Dan - you dirty dog. But he could have taken a vacation as personal discovery was more the poet's path for Matsuo Basho, the famed Haiku master. For years he walked all over southern Japan in the late 1600s and chronicled his journeys in multiple poems and books. (On a personal note, I am a devote apostle of Basho and went to Ueno specifically to see the sights as well.) My favourite of his works remains the travel journal Record of a Weather-Exposed Skeleton. It's not really a modern guide to Japan. But he did have travel buddies, including the monk Sora.

More pilgrims than party animals - but Basho did drink a lot of wine

Back in Europe, the idea of taking a lot of time off just to bum around became in vogue with the young, rich elite. Grand tours all over Europe started in the late1600s and continues to this day with crusty backpackers. The tour would have been a must for a young, well-off Dan, usually with his tutors, as a tour would complete his already classical education. He'd hit France and Italy first, as they were the two biggest destinations for the Dutch gad-about. For a British travelling Dan, he'd hire horses, carts and supplies to take him to the Netherlands, then France, Italy, the Alps, the Rhine, Switzerland, Italy and a swing by Germany on his way home.On a great website The Grand Tour, you can really get into the spirit of their excursions. There are some female traveller's tales as well, such as Lady Hester Stanhope and Elizabeth Craven.

What you would have seen on the Grand Tour in the 1800s. Dan is sitting and trying to be a gentleman and not staring at all the naked chicks

However, these travel journals are cleaned up so much that a lot of what went on of a questionable nature, like a young man sowing his wild oats as it were, are left out. Where we get some gleams of what the rich did on vacation is from literature. I directed Dan to read A Sinner's Grand Tour for some meaty stuff, like the 1880s belle époque fantasy brothel Le Chabanais, the lost “sex chair” of King Edward VII.

Which leads Dan to his current vacation location, the beach.

The English and Welsh came up with the modern concept of going to a seaside resort to bathe, or take in the waters, stay overnight, and for Dan, eat entirely too much cheese. In the 19th century, a middle class was emerging and these people along with the upper class families would escape from the city heat and head to places like Blackpool, Brighton. There Dan could enjoy a music-hall with dances and variety shows, pleasure gardens and exhibitions. More informal seaside town would pick up in the summer months, such as Lyme (mentioned in Austen´s Persuasion as a seaside destination in the 1800s CE) where fishing and farming predominated and visitors entertained themselves. The reason? The modern industrial era was placing a huge strain on people, and doctors were actually prescribing time off for the rich to get away from it all.

Blackpool, not really getting away from anything.

Thanks to the invention of the train and creation of the railways,seaside vacations became possible for the middle and working class. Since the 1840s, cheap and affordable fares to fast growing resort towns in the UK and American made thousands of sun seekers head to the sands. Entrepreneurs (con-men) would build accommodation and create new attractions, leading to more visitors like Dan to cough up their money just to stay and get some sun on their white bodies. Hence the beginning of the Lobster People.

But it took a while.

Wear SPF 5000, Dan!